Troubleshooting
Most problems are a loose joint, a missing injection or a setting in Installer setup. Start here.
Common problems
Find the symptom, check the likely cause first.
Lights stop partway down a run
Data passes light to light, so the problem is at or just before the first dark light. Check that joint: pins lined up, nut turned until snug. Then the joint before it.
A whole channel is dark
Check the cable is twisted into the controller’s connector and every 25′ joint is snug. In Installer setup, check that channel has a light count. Use IDENTIFY to confirm which run is on which channel.
The far end is dim, or whites look warm
The run is past 75 lights without fresh power. Add a tee at light 76 or start a new channel (power). Already have a tee? Check it’s the right way round and its 2-conductor cable reaches a controller power output.
Flicker or random colors
Usually the data line: a cable run near the house’s AC wiring, a run over 100 ft (four 25′ sections), or a loose joint. Reroute or shorten, and re-seat the joints.
Colors are wrong, or white doesn’t look white
Check the channel settings in Installer setup, including the white channel, then run Test the strips: RED, GREEN, BLUE, WHITE should each show clean.
The lights run the wrong way, or the count is off
Set the light count and direction for that channel in Installer setup. SPAN shows where a channel starts and ends.
The controller won’t join Wi‑Fi
Follow Connect to the home’s Wi‑Fi. If the garage signal is weak, that’s usually it.
A light or section has failed
Call or text (850) 393-1519. Kit hardware carries a 3-year warranty.
Install questions
Why 5/8″?
Big enough for a connector’s male end, small enough for the track to hide. Drill on the track line.
Which way round does a connector go?
Male toward the controller, always, on lights, wire and tees. Strands can’t be connected backwards, and the tee only fits one way.
How far can the lights be from the controller?
Up to 100 ft (four 25′ cables). Take the most direct path, away from AC power lines.
Can I cut a string to make a run fit?
No — cut the track and fill with single pucks. A cut connector can’t be replaced on site.
My run is 80 lights. Can I skip the injection?
No — past 75 the far end dims and its whites drift warm. Put a tee at light 76, or move those lights to their own channel.
Tee or new channel — which is better?
A new channel where the roofline breaks or a separate zone is wanted; a tee to keep one continuous run on one channel.
Which wire goes where?
25′ 3-conductor (power, ground, data): run start to a channel. 25′ 2-conductor (power, ground): tee to a power output. 3′ flat: short jumps outside. Only the 25′ Class 2 sections go through the attic.
What about the end of a run?
Twist the waterproof plug into the last light’s female end, then finish the track with an end cap.
Where do the parts come from?
Official installers use Chameleon kits and materials — full kits, partial kits or à la carte. See the kit, or contact us.